Transformed

[from a private source]

In the beginning I didn’t believe I was put on this earth to preach God’s word or to convert non-Christians to Christianity. I didn’t want to have anything to do with evangelism or trying to convince people that Jesus was the ONLY way. I struggled with even being comfortable enough to talk with others (family, friends, loved ones) about my faith and what I knew to be the Truth.

When I gave it ALL over to God, my ENTIRE life, and said ‘Your will be done, not mine’ my life CHANGED – forever. He has given me the knowledge, the passion, and the courage to be outspoken about my faith, my convictions, and His Truth.

I believe what I believe because it is written in God’s word. I own His way because I’ve studied it and mostly because He’s spoken it to my heart and shown me what is true and good.

I know that MY way is NOT the right way – no man’s WAY is the right way. Only HIS WAY is the RIGHT way.

If you have faith, love Jesus, and have love and compassion for your fellow man then you would show them God’s way, the RIGHT way. You would yearn to help them see the truth and to be FREE in their lives, instead of in bondage to sin.

God is our Father and our Master Parent – he teaches us through trials and tribulations in our own lives. He loves us like only a parent can love a child. This is probably the best analogy I can give as to why you would seek to change other’s lives, to set them free from the bondage of sin. Just like walking along side your toddler to make sure they don’t go running off the stairs.

One day a couple of years ago I found myself stuck in my driveway and unable to get out. It was the dead of winter and we had recently had a large snowfall. I had shoveled and shoveled and was NOT able to get out of the driveway. I was late for work. God sent me a nice man to help me get on my way. The man had absolutely no reason to stop and help me. There was not a single thing in it for him, except maybe being late to wherever he was headed. He shoveled some more for me and then made sure I could get out before leaving. I thanked him profusely.

God wants us to reach out to others like this man reached out to help me. He wants us to help others dig themselves out of the bondage of sin.

I’ve never been more free in my entire life. This is a different kind of FREEDOM. It’s a freedom that stems from the love I know my Master Parent has for me. His love and His Gift set me FREE.

I grew up with the great ideal of living my life in bondage to sin. In other words – life was about having STUFF! and feeling good. A good education, a great career, a good husband, a great sex life, a fantastic family, a NICE HOUSE, the RIGHT car, nice clothes, a library full of books, a huge kitchen to entertain with, all the right friends.

Somewhere in the midst of the development of my path to bondage as a kid, God planted His seed in me. A seed that said, nope, this just isn’t fulfilling for me – I longed for much more than having the RIGHT EVERYTHING. I think deep down He showed me the hollowness of a life filled with sin and the bondage that brought. THINK about it! SIN = BONDAGE…in my case it goes something like this: always striving for more, better, and bigger STUFF.

Instead I’m living my life FOR GOD. To do HIS WILL sets me free.

God is the KING of MLM! Multilevel Marketing. The more you grow in Faith, the more you know HIM, the closer you grow to HIM, the MORE you want and seek to do HIS will. How cool is that?!

Is living God’s word through love, compassion, and forgiveness ENOUGH?

My God is a God of love, mercy, and compassion. James Alexander Langteaux said it best in his book God.com - He is a God of risk.

God is...

GOD IS

He is my God, my Jesus,
He is my father,
He is my comforter,
He is my best friend,
He is my creator,
He is my teacher,
He is my confidant,
He is my rock, my fortress,
He is my protector,
He is the love of my life,

He is the light in the darkness,
He is the Truth.

He is the only One in this entire universe that understands all of me, accepts all of me, and loves all of me – unconditionally.

He is the only One that ever loved me so much that He gave His own life for me. He didn’t just give His life for me, He gave His life for my sins; He alone bore all of the ugliness, all of the wretchedness, and all of the disgrace of my sins.

Only He is worthy of my heart, my praise, my worship, and my life.
My thoughts and words on God’s message to His people:
God created us in His image. We are uniquely different from all other parts of His creation. God sent His Holy Spirit to reside inside of man, not plants, animals, or any other part of His creation.

God loves us; He desires to have an intensely personal relationship with us.

God hates sin; it separates us from Him. God wants to forgive us of our sins, but we must repent of our sins and ask His forgiveness. God wants us to believe in and accept His one and only Son, Jesus Christ. God wants us to be “born again” to have His Holy Spirit living within us so that we might know His will for our lives.

God wants us to seek Him and His will for our lives.

He yearns for us to know His Truth, and to share His Truth – to be a light to the world. God wants us to first love Him and then love our “neighbors.”

God wants to see the “fruit of the Spirit” in our lives – love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness, gentleness, and self-control.

John 3:16-21 (NIV) “For God so loved the world that he gave his one and only Son, that whoever believes in him shall not perish but have eternal life. For God did not send his Son into the world to condemn the world, but to save the world through him. Who ever believes in him is not condemned, but whoever does not believe stands condemned already because he has not believed in the name of God’s one and only Son. This is the verdict: Light has come into the world, but men loved darkness instead of light because their deeds were evil. Everyone who does evil hates the light, and will not come into the light for fear that his deeds will be exposed. But whoever lives by the truth comes into the light, so that it may be seen plainly that what he has done has been done through God.”

A. Define truth
John 8:31-32 (NIV) “To the Jews who had believed him, Jesus said, ‘If you hold to my teaching, you are really my disciples. Then you will know the truth, and the truth will set you free.”
Jesus’ Teachings:
 John 3 – Jesus Teaches Nicodemus
1. v3 “I tell you the truth, no one can see the kingdom of God unless he is born again.” In this verse and subsequent verses (through verse 8) Jesus teaches about being Spirit filled. Jesus teaches about being baptized not only by water, but also by the Holy Spirit. In essence being born again is to be filled with the Holy Spirit (which only comes from repentance and acceptance of His forgiveness).
2. In the remainder of John chapter 3 Jesus tells about gaining entrance into heaven – “For God so loved the world that he gave his one and only Son, that whoever believes in Him shall not perish but have eternal life.”
 John 4 – Jesus talks with a Samaritan woman
1. Jesus teaches that He is the well of eternal life (v1-14).
2. He also talks of a time when worship of God will not be in this earthly world (v21-26).
 John 5 – The Healing at the Pool, Life through the Son
1. Jesus heals a man that has been ill for 38 years (v1-15). The point? That we should help those in need, regardless of the day (Jesus performed this miracle on the Sabbath).
2. In v. 16-30 Jesus talks about how he only does what the Father does, and “for I seek not to please myself but him who sent me.”
 John 6 – Jesus the Bread of Life
1. v.27 Jesus teaches us not to put our effort into things that will spoil, but to put our effort into what endures to eternal life.
2. v.32-35 Jesus teaches that God, the Father, will give us life through Christ.
3. v.48-58 Jesus teaches of communion with him (eating of his flesh and drinking of his blood). He stresses that who ever communes with him, remains in him, and will have eternal life. We are to have a personal relationship with Christ that we take seriously and place first in our lives. He is of GREAT importance.
4. John 7
1. v.21-24 Jesus wants us to make right “judgments” about others – we are not to “judge” a book by its cover.
2.
3. K
4. k

How can you hold to Jesus’ teachings and know His truth if you never read the bible?

Define light, darkness, and evil.


Acts 3: 19 “Repent, then, and turn to God, so that your sins may be wiped out, that times of refreshing may come from the Lord.”

Acts 17:30

Luke 13:3

Jesus transcends all physical realms and the everyday meaning of life.

Creation:
 Genesis 1:27 “So God created man in his own image, in the image of God he created him; male and female he created them.”
 Psalm 148:5 “Let them praise the name of the Lord, for he commanded and they were created.”
 Colossians 1:16 “For by him all things were created: things in heaven and on earth, visible and invisible, whether thrones or powers or rulers or authorities; all things were created by him and for him.”

Personal Relationship:
 John 6:53-58 “Jesus said to them, ‘I tell you the truth, unless you eat the flesh of the Son of Man and drink his blood, you have no life in you. Whoever eats my flesh and drinks my blood has eternal life, and I will raise him up at the last day. For my flesh is real food and my blood is real drink. Whoever eats my flesh and drinks my blood remains in me, and I in him. Just as the living Father sent me and I live because of the Father, so the one who feeds on me will live because of me. This is the bread that came down from heaven. Your forefathers ate manna and died, but he who feeds on this bread will live forever.”
 Luke 19:10 “For the Son of Man came to seek and to save what was lost.”
 All of Luke 15 – The parable of the lost sheep, the lost coin, and the prodigal son.
 Luke 14:27 “And anyone who does not carry his bross and follow me cannot be my disciples.”

Sin:
 Isaiah 59:2 “But your iniquities have separated you from your God; your sins have hidden his face from you, so that he will not hear.”
Repent or Parish:
 Luke 13:1-9
 “I am the way and the truth and the life. No one comes to the Father except through me.”
 John 3:18-21 “Whoever believes in him is not condemned, but whoever does not believe stands condemned already because he has not believed in the name of God’s one and only Son. This is the verdict: Light has come into the world, but men loved darkness instead of light because their deeds were evil. Everyone who does evil hates the light, and will not come into the light for fear that his deeds will be exposed. But whoever lives by the truth comes into the light, so that it may be seen plainly that what he has done has been done through God.”
Accept Jesus
 John 5:24-27
 Mark 9:7 “Then a cloud appeared and enveloped them, and a voice came from the cloud: ‘This is my Son, whom I love. Listen to him!’”
Born Again
 John 3:3(-8) “In reply Jesus declared, ‘I tell you the truth, no one can see the kingdom of God unless he is born again.’” In this verse and subsequent verses (through verse 8) Jesus teaches about being Spirit filled. Jesus teaches about being baptized not only by water, but also by the Holy Spirit. In essence being born again is to be filled with the Holy Spirit (which only comes from repentance of sins and acceptance of His forgiveness).

"A Brieft History of Bedford County, VA"

A brief History of Bedford County

Bedford County is located in southwestern part of the state of Virginia, between the cities of Roanoke, to the West, and Lynchburg, to the East. It is bounded on the North by the Blue Ridge Mountains with the majestic Peaks of Otter, and on the South by Smith Mountain Lake, and on the East by the James River.
Long before the coming of European explorers, native American Indians lived here, at least as far back in time as several thousand years B.C. The initial explorers in the 1600's reported finding tribes of Saponi, Tutelo, and Monacan.
The English colony of Virginia was divided into eight shires in 1634. The shires were subsequently subdivided into large counties, and then smaller counties. Bedford County was formed from Lunenburg County by an act passed Dec 13, 1753, to take effect on 10 May 1754, with the seat of government to be the community of New London.
The County was named Bedford, in honor of John Russell, the fourth Duke of Bedford, who was Secretary of State of Great Britain at the time.
Settlers came to Bedford to farm and to exploit the natural resources of timber and fertile lands, well watered by springs, creeks and streams fed by rains coming off the mountains.
Lula Jeter Parker, in _Parker's History of Bedford County_, records that "Campbell County was taken from Bedford County in 1782. Again, in 1786, Bedford gave of her territory for the formation of still another county, Franklin, to which Henry County also contributed". See description at History from Hamilton's & Viemeister - Books on-line gives description of Parker's book.
The county seat was moved in 1782 from New London, then near the Bedford-Campbell border, to a more central location, with a new log courthouse, on land donated to be the new Town of Liberty.
In 1786 John Lynch obtained charter to start a new town on the James River, which later became the City of Lynchburg.
In 1806 President Thomas Jefferson began construction of the octagonal summer retreat home, "Poplar Forest", on land inherited decades earlier by his late wife.
Much of the manual labor on the farms and plantations was done by slaves. From Slaves to Satellites notes that "In the 1850's, some 69% of all landowners owned slaves." See Slavery to Satellites - 250 years - Excerpts
_Historical Diary of Bedford_ records that on April 1, 1852 the Virginia & Tennessee railroad ran an excursion from Lynchburg to Forest Depot and back.
War between the states encompassed people of Bedford. A History of Bedford County (in the 1884 Hardesty's Encyclopedia) says "When the Richmond convention passed the ordinance of secession, April 17, 1861, Bedford County citizens enthusiastically ratified the action of their delegates to that body. The services of three Bedford companies were the first in the State tendered and accepted by Governor Letcher after the call for troops, and nine companies were in the field before the close of May, 1861." More info at History from Hamilton's & Viemeister - Books on-line gives description of this book, which contains some family histories and a roll of Civil War soldiers..
An estimated 15,000 Federal Union army soldiers, commanded by Gen. David Hunter and intent upon capturing Lynchburg, streamed over the Blue Ridge between the two Peaks of Otter, came into Bedford in June 1864. They skirmished to the outskirts of Lynchburg but "Hunter's Raid" failed its objective. The Peaks of Otter Life and Timesexplains. "General Hunter believed that the Confederate forces in the city were too strong for his tired and hungry men. The next day he retreated, followed by Confederate snipers, losing one hundred men as he passed back through Liberty and on into West Virginia." See Excerpts from The Peaks of Otter - Life and Times
Slavery ended during the war. After enduring a tedious economic recovery after the end of the Civil War, Bedford industry flourished in the 1890's and tourists enjoyed the mountains and resort hotels. Liberty changed its name to Bedford City. Excerpts from the 1887 _Sketch Book of Liberty, VA_
Bedford County escaped harm during the first World War, but agonized during World War II, as hundreds of its young men were casualties of battle. D-Day extracted a terrible toll: 19 Bedford men died on Omaha each in the D-Day battle at Normandy.
After peace returned, businesses prospered. A dam was built on the Staunton River, creating Smith Mountain Lake, which reached full pond in 1966. The lake stabilized electricity production and became a powerful lure for retirees and vacationers.
The legend of the Beale Treasure reemerged in national media. For more about the legend, click on Hamilton's & Viemeister - Excerpt from _The Beale Treasure_
Restoration began on Thomas Jefferson's Poplar Forest home.
The strong postwar economy had fostered growth in Roanoke and Lynchburg, and many city workers chose to make their homes in Bedford County, a place admired for its natural beauty, low taxes and low cost of living.
During the 1980's and early 1990's, Bedford was one of the faster growing counties in Virginia. As the population swelled, newer residents stimulated the need for more schools, more roads, and more law enforcement, changes which caused local government to expand and taxes to rise.
Now, Bedford is proud to be the site of the new National D-Day Monument. President Bush was one of 22,000 people at the dedication on 6 June 2001.
Genealogists can find family information by visiting the Courthouse and the Bedford City/County Museum

Historian Peter Viemeister is a resident of Bedford and author of _Start All Over - An American Experience_.
http://www.28thvirginia.com/contents.html
28th VIRGINIA INFANTRY
CO. D






This is the original flag issued to the 28th Virginia Regiment.This flag was replaced by the Confederate Battle Flag in 1862.


"
28th Virginia Infantry

This is the flag of the 28th VA INF regiment. State flags were often used in the early days because the Confederacy had not supplied all units with Confederate Battle Flags. The history of the Virginia state flag is the Bonnie Blue flag with the star replaced by the seal of the Commonwealth. The seal, which had been adopted during the Revolution represents the goddess Liberty striking down an allegorical tyrant, his crown dashed to the earth. Both seal and flag display the Latin motto "SIC SEMPER TYRANNIS" which translates as "Ever Thus to Tyrants." The symbol which had been adopted as Virginia's response to monarchical and parliamentary tyranny in the 1770's would serve as her reply to aggression in the 1860's. In slightly modified form, the flag of 1861 still serves the Commonwealth of Virginia.
The 28th Infantry Regiment completed its organization in Lynchburg, VA in June, 1861, Its members were raised in Botetourt, Craig, Bedford, Campbell, and Roanoke counties. After fighting at First Manassas, the unit was assigned to Gen. Pickett's, Garnett's, and Hunton's Brigade of the Army of Northern Virginia. The regiment was active in the campaigns of the army from Williamsburg to Gettysburg except when it served with Longstreet at Suffolk. The 28th moved to North Carolina, then was on detached duty at Richmond. It fought at Cold Harbor, the Petersburg trenches, and was engaged in various conflicts around Appomattox. The regiment consisted of around 600 men in April, 1862 and reported 40 casualties at Williamsburg and 47 at Seven Pines. 12 were killed at Manassas and 52 were injured, 8 were killed and 54 wounded during the Maryland Campaign, and, of the 333 engaged at Gettysburg, half were disabled. Many were captured at Sayler's Creek, and 3 officers and 51 men surrendered on April (, 1865. The field officers were Colonels Robert C. Allen, Robert T. Preston, and William Watts; Lieutenant Colonels Samuel B. Paul and William L. Wingfield; and Majors Michael P. Spessard and Nathaniel C. Wilson.



Navigation Note: To navigate between the pages on this site, and for more information about 28th Virginia, please select your desired destination from the bold blue underlined contents list to your left.

Company Motto
Duty, Fame, Love and Wealth may desert us but......
Erieland's HONOR shall be Eternal"
The 38th Battalion Virginia Light Artillery

Virginia's
Southern Sons of
Saint Barbara
1862 - 1865




A Brief History of the Battalion


The batteries that made up the 38th Battalion were the Fauquier (Co. A), Richmond Fayette (Co. B), Hampden (Co. C), and Blount's Lynchburg Artillery (Co. D). Each battery had initially different areas of operation before joining together in Dearing's Battalion. Among the early individual battle honors were First Manassas, Jackson's Valley Campaign, the Peninsula, Richmond, and 2nd Manassas.

Following reorganization as a battalion in November, 1862, the battalion saw service at Fredericksburg and began serving in George E. Pickett's division during the Suffolk Campaign. Under the incredible leadership of Major James Dearing, the battalion became a formidable arm of Lee's Long Arm. From Suffolk, the organization, now designated as the 38th Battalion, followed Pickett to Gettysburg, participating in the grand barrage before the famous charge; and into North Carolina at the Second Battle of New Bern. Later attached to Hoke's division, the battalion fought at Plymouth, Drewry's Bluff, Bermuda Hundred, Cold Harbor, and in the nine months of trench warfare at Petersburg. After participating in the offensive against Fort Stedman, the battalion was cut off from the Army of Northern Virginia near Appomattox. Though some men of the battalion surrendered with Lee, the majority of the 38th continued on to Lynchburg where they were disbanded.
The Richmond Fayette Artillery



A Brief History of the Battery


Organized initially as the "Richmond Light Artillery" on May 3, 1821, this company was later renamed in July, 1824 to the "Richmond Fayette Artillery" in honor of the Marquis de La Fayette's visit to the United States. Early captains included Robert Nimmo, Charles Richardson, and Henry C. Cabell, under whom the battery was organized for the war on April 25, 1861. Formerly Co. F, 1st Va. Vols., the battery had also been associated with the 1st Regt. Va. Arty as Co. I and Co. H. Early battles for the battery included the Yorktown Line and Williamsburg. Independent by the reorganization in 1862, the battery served under Capt. Cary Macon. Transferred to Major General Geroge E. Pickett's Division, the battery began to see an upgrade in activity beginning with the Battle of Fredericksburg on December 13, 1862 in an undesignated battalion under the command of Major James Dearing. By the close of 1862 this battalion was assigned the title of the 38th Battalion Va. Lt. Artillery. From Gettysburg, the battlefields of North Carolina, Cold Harbor and Petersburg, the Richmond Fayette Artillery served with distinction. Finally, in the retreat from Petersburg, the battery, being in the van guard of Lee's army, escaped capture at Appomattox, only to spike their guns near Bent Creek near Lynchburg, Virginia. Either near Lynchburg or Fincastle, the battery, along with the remnants of the 38th Battalion, were disbanded.

For more detailed information on this company, and the men who fought in it, I recommend
The Richmond Fayette, Hampden, Thomas, and Blount's Lynchburg Artillery
by Robert H. Moore, II
Available from


The Virginia Regimental Histories Series
Or Can be Obtained through:

The Fauquier Artillery



A Brief History of the Battery


Originally Co. G, 49th Va. Inf., the company was organized June 22, 1861, as the Markham Guards, enlisting July 1, 1861. The company was detached from the 49th in September or October, 1861 and served as Capt. Robert M. Stribling's Battery. Reorganized May 12, 1862, the battery was assigned later in the year to the 38th Battalion Va. Lt. Artillery. Following the reorganization of the artillery of the Army of Northern Virginia in October, some men and equipment were assigned from Captain John R. Johnson's Bedford Artillery and Capt. Arthur L. Roger's Loudoun Artillery. Many members that transfered from the Bedford Artillery were subsequently transfered to Blount's Lynchburg Artillery (Co. D) or the Purcell Artillery later on. Captain William C. Marshall assumed command as captain following the promotion of Stribling to major on March 11, 1864.

For more detailed information on this company, and the men who fought in it, I recommend
The Brooke, Fauquier, Loudoun and Alexandria Artillery
by Michael J. Andrus
Johnson's Bedford Artillery


A Brief History of the Battery


The Bedford Artillery was a company that faced nothing but disappointment and missed opportunities. From the date of the unit's conversion from infantry to artillery, almost one full year elapsed before the unit finally became engaged in a full-scale battle at Second Manassas. Less than a month later, the Bedford men took a beating at Sharpsburg and suffered horrible casualties. Partially as a result of the battle and the reorganization of the artillery of the Army of Northern Virginia, the battery was disbanded and reassigned in October, 1862. While a good number of men were reassigned to the Purcell Artillery, a large number were also reassigned to the Lee Lynchburg Artillery.

For more detailed information on this company, and the men who fought in it, I recommend
The Charlottesville, Lee Lynchburg and Johnson's Bedford Artillery
by Robert H. Moore, II
Blount's Lynchburg Artillery



A Brief History of the Battery


Originally enlisted as Capt. Henry Gray Latham's (not re-elected) Battery on April 23, 1861, this battery later came under the command of Captain James G. Dearing (later promoted to major) when reorganized on April 3, 1862. The final commanders being Captain Joseph G. Blount (promoted to major, Oct. 1864) and Captain James W. Dickerson. Some of the men from the Bedford Artillery were later transfered to this battery. The battery was later assigned to the 38th Battalion Va. Lt. Artillery by the close of 1862.

For more detailed information on this company, and the men who fought in it, I recommend
The Richmond Fayette, Hampden, Thomas, and Blount's Lynchburg Artillery
by Robert H. Moore, II

Richmond Enquirer April 29, 1864
THE BATTLE OF PLYMOUTH
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The following is a list of casualties in the 38th Battalion Virginia Artillery, in the engagement near Plymouth, N.C. 18th, 19th and 20th April 1864, Major J. P. W. Read commanding:
Field and Staff, none
Fauquier Artillery, Capt. W. C. Marshall, commanding

KILLED:
Sergeant F. W. Powell
Private Wm. H. Riley
WOUNDED:
Lt. T. M. Archer, thigh severely,
Corporal P.P. Thomas, knee and chest
Pr B. Bowery, thigh; severely
H. J. Pritchard, thigh, slightly
M. Weaver, leg broken
Richmond Fayette Artillery. Lieutenant B. H. Robinson, Commanding

KILLED
Private John Ronke
George A. Benton
WOUNDED
Privates James Barnes, foot amputated
Richard B. Dowden, back severely
Thomas Lillas, face, severely
Edwin Cocke, left arm, severely
William A. Allen, leg amputated, mortally
William H. Robinson, abdomen, slightly
W. O. Martin, shocked by explosion of caisson
A member of the 11th Virginia Regiment, writing to the Lynchburg "Republican," from Plymouth, under date of the 19th, says:
About 4 o'clock, A.M., Companies C and G were thrown out as skirmishers and moved through a deep marsh to within a hundred and fifty yards of a strong fort; this was to secure a position from which the Yankee gunners could be picked off and prevent their firing on our batteries. In executing this move, I regret to record the following casualties
Lieut. W. H. Thayer, Company H, wounded badly
______ Callahan, Company B, wounded slightly
A.J. Bateman, company C, wounded severely shoulder
Lee Brown, Company C, Wounded slightly
F. B. Tweedy, Company C, killed
W. J. Monroe, company C, wounded badly
E. A. Tweedy, Company c, wounded slightly
J. C. Hall, Company C, wounded slightly
H. Eades, Company C, wounded slightly
The following casualties occurred in Company G:
Corporal J. P. Sale, wounded, supposed mortally
Corporal W. S. Averett, wounded, supposed mortally
Private J. H. Cross, wounded, supposed mortally
W. P. Conley, Wounded slightly
W. S. Gregory, wounded slightly
C. H. Gwatkins, wounded slightly
S. T. Nowlin, wounded slightly
W. H. Woods, wounded slightly
Thirty-fifth N. C. Regiment. - Company A
Private J. A. Costin;
Company C
Private Neal Smith
Forty-third N. C. Regiment - Company A
Privates L. R. Grisham
L. J. Quinn; Company E
Private A. W. Simmons
Company F
Private J. H. Wood
Company H
Private W. J. Ashcraft
Company K
Private W. H. Meeks
Fifty Sixth N. C. Regiment. - Company A
Private K. Setton
Company B
Private W. Handy
Company D
Lieut. C. R. Wilson
Privates J. R. Miller
G. W. Montgomery
Company G
Private E. Carlton
Twenty First Georgia Regiment. - Company F
Private W. R. Philips
Company G
Private L. W. Jones
Twenty -Fourth Virginia Regiment - Company B
Private H. A. Metts
Bradford's (Mississippi) Artillery
T. L. Russell
The following named wounded soldiers from Plymouth have arrived at Goldsboro' and are now receiving medical aid at the General Hospital. All are slightly wounded and doing well:
Sixth N. C. Regiment. - Company A
Private J. E. Bordon
Company B
Privates J. E. Saunders
J. Tilly
A. Weavil
Company C
Serg't. J. E. Lyon
Private John McGee
Company E
Private R. Pittman
Company F
E. Nelson
Company H
Private F. Page
Company I
Privates John Childress
A. B. Ephraim
Company K
Privates E. P. Hyatt
John Reece
Eight N. C. Regiment, - Company I
Private A. Boggs
Twenty first N. C. regiment - Company D
Private J. C. Boyles
Company F
Private A. M. King
Company H
Privates W. W. Ashburn
John Marion
Company I
Private C. H. Boyles
Company K
Private C. Flynn
Lynchburg Artillery
Capt. J. G. Blount, commanding. --
KILLED:
None
WOUNDED:
Sergeant Thomas Ross, both legs, severely
Corporal T. W. Jeter, hip, slightly
Privates William T. Noell, head severely
James M. Whorley, face severely
George S. Merriman, hand, slightly
C. P. McCary, knee, slightly
Thomas M. Stone, arm, slightly
William S. Moore, hip, slightly
Henry T. Early, foot, slightly
W. H. Walden, leg, slightly
Thomas O. Cox, hand, slightly
H. S. Arthur, face, slightly
Recapitulation
Killed, - Officer 0, Men 4
Wounded, - Officers 1, Men 23
T. Lewis, Adjutant

"Bible Study on Character - The Refining Process"

Character:
The Refining Process

This Bible study on the refining process can be used by one person alone or in a small group. It is short (20 to 30 mins) but if you read each passage, reflect on it, and discuss it, you'll gain a good sense of what refining really means, its demands, and its rewards.

For Christmas, anniversaries or birthdays, jewelry is always a popular gift item. Gold jewelry is made from 14-karat, 18-karat, 22-karat, or 24-karat gold. What’s the difference between them?

What do you know about the metal refining process that brings about such beauty and quality?

In the dictionary, “Refine” means several things:
1. to reduce to a pure state, as with sugar, metal, or oil
2. to free from moral imperfection
3. to improve by pruning or polishing
4. to free from what is coarse, vulgar, or uncouth, as with a refined person
When the Bible speaks of “refining,” to which of these definitions does it refer?

What does the Bible say about refining?
a. Metal is refined and purified in a furnace; the Lord purifies and tests the heart. (Read Proverbs 17:3)
b. We must be refined before our offerings are acceptable to the Lord. (Read Malachi 3:2-4)
c. The Lord’s people will be tested in the furnace of affliction (or great suffering). (Read Isaiah 1:25, 4:4, 48:10 and Jeremiah 9:7)
d. The Lord examines your heart and mind. (Read Jeremiah 17:10)
e. Those who survive will be refined and tested by the Lord. (Read Zechariah 13:9)
Describe a recent situation that at the time was difficult but later you could look back at it from the point of view of refining your character.

To Do:
1. Remember, refining does not come from listening to sermons or reading the Bible. It comes from being exposed to difficult situations and enduring affliction.

2. Pray that you recognize the hand of the Refiner in difficult situations.

"Bible Study on Character - Patience"

Bible Study on
Character - Patience

This Bible study on patience can be used by one person alone or in a small group. It is short (20 to 30 min.) but if you read each question and Bible passage, reflect on it, and discuss it, you'll gain a good sense of what patience really means, its demands, and its rewards.

What animal do you associate with patience? Why?

Do you think that patience comes naturally, i.e., you have it as a child, or is it something that is learned as you get older and more mature?

We all lose our patience from time to time. What are some situations in which you get frustrated and lose your patience? Do these situations more often involve things or people?

Does today's society and way of living encourage one to be patient?

In the dictionary, "patience" has several meanings: 1) bearing pains or trials calmly and without complaining, 2) not being hasty or impetuous, 3) being steadfast despite opposition or adversity, and 4) showing forbearance under provacation or strain. We often think of patience (or being patient) as something benign (meaning #2), but the dictionary definitions and Bible imply that pain, trials, adversity, and strain may also be involved (James 1:2-4, 1 Peter 2:20, Romans 5:3-4, 12:12). Does this give you a new slant on the concept?

In the Bible, perseverence is often mentioned in the same verse as patience (Matthew 24:13, Romans 5:3-4, Galatians 6:9, Hebrews 10:23, 10:36, James 1:2-4). Why do these two traits go hand in hand? What is the difference between them?

The Bible also frequently mentions a promise along with patience and perseverence (Psalm 37:7-9, 37:34, 40:1-3, Galatians 6:9, Hebrews 6:12, 10:36, James 5:7-8). What are these promises?

One of my personal favorite memory verses is Psalm 37:34 (New Living Translation).
Don’t be impatient for the Lord to act!
Travel steadily along his path.
He will honor you, giving you the land.
You will see the wicked destroyed.
What is the important action message for you in this verse (if there is one)?

To do:
1. Pray for greater patience in specific situations where you typically lose patience.

2. Memorize a Bible verse on patience.

"Bible Study on Character - Integrity"

Bible Study on
Character - Integrity

This Bible study on integrity can be used by one person alone or in a small group. It is short (20 to 30 mins) but if you read each passage, reflect on it, and discuss it, you'll gain a good sense of what integrity really means, its demands, and its rewards.

In the dictionary, the word integrity means 1) an unimpaired condition, i.e., soundness, wholeness 2) firm adherence to a code of moral values, i.e., incorruptible, honor, 3) the quality or state of being complete or undivided, i.e., completeness. Synonyms of integrity are honesty and unity.

The word integrity is related to what other words? Do they give you a better sense of the meaning of integrity?

The first definition (soundness or wholeness) is most often applied to a structure or a physical object, say the girders in a bridge, an engine block, or a piece of pottery. Can it be applied to a person as well?

Thinking just of the first definition above, what happens to something that does not have integrity?

We frequently think of a man of integrity being honest and trustworthy, but integrity is more than that. Look at the second definition and describe the difference between being trustworthy and being incorruptible.

What does the Bible have to say about integrity?
1. Integrity means treating people fairly and honestly. (Leviticus 19:35-36, Deut 25:15, Proverbs 16:11-13)
2. Integrity is giving your word and keeping it. (Exodus 8:28-32)
3. Integrity will protect you. In Psalm 25, David prays that integrity and uprightness will protect him. How can it? (Psalm 25:21, Proverbs 2:7-8, 10:9, 11:3, 13:6)
4. Integrity is more valuable than riches. (Proverbs 28:6)
5. The Lord will test and judge your integrity. (1 Chronicles 29:17, Psalm 7:8)
6. The Lord hates lies and lack of integrity. (Zechariah 8:16-17)
7. It may be difficult to maintain your integrity. (Job 2:3, 2:9, Proverbs 29:10)
8. Your character can be corrupted by bad company. (1 Corinthians 15:33)
9. Integrity will be rewarded. (1 Kings 9:4-5, Nehemiah 7:2, Psalm 41:11-12)
10. Your integrity should set an example. (Titus 2:7)
Who do you know that you would describe as a person of integrity? What sets this person apart from other people of a similar age and position?

If people who know you were asked for five words that describe you, would integrity be one of them?

My Life Is In You Lord

My life is in You Lord
My strength is in You Lord
My hope is in You Lord
It's in You,
It's in You

My life is in You Lord
My strength is in You Lord
My hope is in You Lord
It's in You,
It's in You

I'll praise You with all of my life
I'll praise You with all of my strength
With all of my life
With all of my strength
All my hope is in You

All Glory, Laud, And Honor

Matthew 21:9 “The crowds that went ahead of him and those that followed shouted, ‘Hosanna to the Son of David!’ ‘Blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord!’ ‘Hosanna in the highest!’”

Words: Theodulph of Orleans, circa 820 (Gloria, laus, et honor); translated from Latin to English by John M. Neale, 1851.

Music: “St. Theodulph,” Melchior Teschner, in Ein andächtiges Gebet (Leipzig, Germany: 1615).

All glory, laud and honor,
To Thee, Redeemer, King,
To Whom the lips of children
Made sweet hosannas ring.

Thou art the King of Israel,
Thou David’s royal Son,
Who in the Lord’s Name comest,
The King and Blessèd One.

All glory, laud and honor,
To Thee, Redeemer, King,
To Whom the lips of children
Made sweet hosannas ring.

The company of angels
Are praising Thee on High,
And mortal men and all things
Created make reply.

All glory, laud and honor,
To Thee, Redeemer, King,
To Whom the lips of children
Made sweet hosannas ring.

The people of the Hebrews
With palms before Thee went;
Our prayer and praise and anthems
Before Thee we present.

All glory, laud and honor,
To Thee, Redeemer, King,
To Whom the lips of children
Made sweet hosannas ring.

To Thee, before Thy passion,
They sang their hymns of praise;
To Thee, now high exalted,
Our melody we raise.

All glory, laud and honor,
To Thee, Redeemer, King,
To Whom the lips of children
Made sweet hosannas ring.

Thou didst accept their praises;
Accept the prayers we bring,
Who in all good delightest,
Thou good and gracious King.

All glory, laud and honor,
To Thee, Redeemer, King,
To Whom the lips of children
Made sweet hosannas ring.

Neale noted “another verse was usually sung until the seventeenth century, at the quaintness of which we can scarcely avoid a smile”:

Be Thou, O Lord, the Rider,
And we the little ass,
That to God’s holy city
Together we may pass.

Heavenly Sunlight

1 John 1:5 “This is the message which we have heard from him and declare to you: God is light; in him is no darkness at all.”

Words: Henry J. Zelley, in Gospel Praise, by William Kirkpatrick and Henry Gilmour (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: Hall-Mack Co., 1899).

Music: George H. Cook.

Walking in sunlight all of my journey;
Over the mountains, through the deep vale;
Jesus has said, “I’ll never forsake thee,”
Promise divine that never can fail.

Heavenly sunlight, heavenly sunlight,
Flooding my soul with glory divine:
Hallelujah, I am rejoicing,
Singing His praises, Jesus is mine.

Shadows around me, shadows above me,
Never conceal my Savior and Guide;
He is the Light, in Him is no darkness;
Ever I’m walking close to His side.

Heavenly sunlight, heavenly sunlight,
Flooding my soul with glory divine:
Hallelujah, I am rejoicing,
Singing His praises, Jesus is mine.

In the bright sunlight, ever rejoicing,
Pressing my way to mansions above;
Singing His praises gladly I’m walking,
Walking in sunlight, sunlight of love.

Heavenly sunlight, heavenly sunlight,
Flooding my soul with glory divine:
Hallelujah, I am rejoicing,
Singing His praises, Jesus is mine.

"Natural Cures" partial list to get and stay healthy

• Drink a glass of water immediately when you wake up in the morning
• Eat a large breakfast including organic fruits, rye bread, raw butter, raw milk (raw means not pasteurized or homogenized), plain yogurt (no sugar or fruit), wild smoked salmon, organic beef, organic chicken, organic lamb, tuna, sardines, eggs, tomatoes, peppers, salsa, celery, carrots (or any vegetables), limited amount of coffee with raw milk or cream and raw evaporated sugar cane juice or honey, and real tea (not in tea bags)
• Drink 8 glasses of water each day
• Walk for at least an hour nonstop each day
• Do NOT eat after 6pm
• Do a candida cleanse
• Do a colon cleanse
• Consume 100% organic, virgin, unrefined coconut oil
• Use infrared saunas
• Eat organic grapefruits all day
• Do NOT eat aspartame or ANY artificial sweeteners (including saccharin & splenda)
• Do NOT eat MSG (this is found in food even if not on the label: it may be disguised as “spices”, “artificial flavoring”, “hydrolyzed vegetable protein”, etc.)
• Take digestive enzymes
• Do NOT eat “diet” sodas or “diet” foods
• Do NOT eat at fast food or chain restaurants
• Do NOT eat High Fructose Corn Syrup
• Do NOT eat white sugar or white flour
• Eat organic apples all day
• Eat ONLY organic meat, poultry and fish (no fish farms)
• Limit your dairy products (only eat organic and raw)
• Do a liver cleanse
• Eat a big salad at the start of lunch and dinner (uses only organic vegetables; dressing should be organic olive oil and freshly squeezed lemon juice, or organic apple cider vinegar with sea salt, fresh ground pepper or garlic for taste)
• Exercise on a “re-bounder” 10 minutes a day (mini-trampoline)
• Add hot peppers to your food
• Use organic apple cider vinegar (take 2 teaspoons before each meal)
• Breathe! (oxygen burns fat; most people do not breathe enough to stimulate their metabolism and fat burning capabilities)
• Wear magnetic rings on your little fingers at night
• Get 15 colonics in 30 days
• Add muscle (muscle burns fat; adding muscle by exercising increases metabolism)
• Fast (try a 21-day “juice fast”)
• Cheat whenever you want (it’s preferable to eat the treat without guilt than to not eat it and be stressed out about it)
• Reduce or eliminate the “uncontrollable” urge to eat when you’re not hungry

notes from Creation Seminar part 4B (session 5)

Creation Seminar: Part 4B
April 13, 2008

Lies in the Textbooks (Part 5)

Planned Parenthood was started by Margaret Sanger on October 16, 1916 in order to eliminate what she thought were “inferior races like Orientals, Jews and Blacks.”
Abortionists refer to an unborn baby as a “parasite” in a woman’s body
80% of the abortion “death camps” are in minority neighborhoods; 13% of American women are black, yet they have 35% of the abortions; over 25% of the black population has been killed by abortion since 1973
Their own documents used to admit that an abortion “kills the life of a baby after it has begun”
Proverbs 6:16-17 These six things doth the Lord hate…hands that shed innocent blood
Deuteronomy 27:35 Cursed be he that taketh reward to slay an innocent person
LIE: THE APPENDIX IS A VESTIGAL ORGAN (Your appendix is part of your immune system!)
LIE: A WHALE’S PELVIS BONES ARE VESTIGAL (Those bones are needed for whales to reproduce!)
LIE: HUMANS HAVE A VESTIGAL TAILBONE [COCCYX] (This is not true – there are 9 little muscles that attach to the tailbone that have very important functions)
Quote by Sir Arthur Keith (an evolutionist): “Evolution is unproved and un-provable. We believe it only because the only alternative is special creation, and that is unthinkable.” They don’t want to believe in creation – they’d rather believe a lie instead of the truth
Psalm 94:8-9 …he that formed the eye, shall he not see? (God formed the eye – it is incredibly complicated). It you have something has design to it (like an eyeball), there has to be a designer!
Romans 1:20-22 the invisible things of him from the creation of the world are clearly seen…they are without excuse
Satan knows that real study of God’s creation (Science) will draw men to God. Psalm 8:3-4 “When I consider thy heavens...What is man, that thou art mindful of him?”
Evolutionists use the adaptation in textbooks instead of calling something a design feature. If there’s a design, there has to be a designer!
You do not have to see the Creator to know that he exists!

notes from Creation Seminar part 4B (session 4)

Creation Seminar: Part 4B
April 6, 2008

Lies in the Textbooks (Part 4)

There’s no evidence of evolution from fossils (if you find a bone in the dirt, all you know is that it died – there’s no way to tell if it any offspring, let alone different offspring from itself!)
Evolution is based on 2 faulty assumptions: [1] mutations make something new, and [2] natural selection makes it survive and take over the population
Evolution is actually a religion of death
Question to think about: [1] Did man bring death into the world (through Adam’s sin), or did death bring man into the world (as evolution teaches)?
Yes, mutations happens, which may produce different variations; mutations DO NOT produce any kind of evolution – they rearrange existing information, but do not increase genetic complexity. It is not NEW information, it is SCRABBLED information! Textbooks will give you an example of a HARMFUL mutation and hope that you will then believe that BENEFICIAL mutations occur…they do NOT!
LIE: NATURAL SELECTION CAUSES EVOLUTION
Natural selection CAN NOT create any properties, it can only SELECT! Natural selection is simply a “quality control”, not a “design engineer. “Survival of the fittest” does not explain the arrival of the fittest!
LIE: THE PEPPERED MOTHS IN ENGLAND ARE EXAMPLES OF SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST AND EVOLUTION
Textbooks do NOT want to think critically. They ask questions that have built in assumptions: “Do you think that humans are still evolving?” This is assuming that humans have evolved! How is a Christian student supposed to answer this question for his/her homework??
LIE: HOMOLOGOUS STRUCTURES PROVE EVOLUTION
LIE: COMPARATIVE ANATOMY PROVES EVOLUTION
The above 2 lies do NOT prove evolution – they prove that there was a common DESIGNER
LIE: EVIDENCE FROM DEVELOPMENT PROVES EVOLUTION. This comes from the “biogenetic law” chart that was made up by Earnst Haeckel.
Textbooks lie and tell students that the human embryo develops “gill slits” like a fish! Those supposed “gill slits” or “gill pouches” grow into bones in the ear and glands in the throat. They never have anything to do with breathing!
The theory of evolution created Nazism! They thought “If evolution is true, I wonder which race has developed the farthest?” So, of course they thought that the Germans did!
In 1875, Haeckel’s drawings were proven wrong – but his chart is STILL being taught in high school and college classes!
If want to score high on the SAT and ACT to get into college, you will have to answer questions about evolution and lie about what the real answers are.
Can you believe that a textbooks states that a human fetus is NOT a normal baby (not human, essentially) at 7 months old?! A BABY IS HUMAN AT CONCEPTION
34% of babies born at 5 ½ months survive
Genesis 16:11 (does this verse say “fetus” or “child”?)
Our society keeps this lie in the textbooks because it is the only way to “scientifically” justify abortion! They want you to think that it is not human yet.
20% of the world’s population has been killed by abortion
Peter Singer, a professor at Princeton, favors killings babies up to 28 days old
The purpose of the 2nd amendment is not so we can go duck hunting – it is so we can protect ourselves from our own government if need be!
1 John 1:9

notes from Creation Seminar part 4A (session 3)

Creation Seminar: Part 4A
March 30, 2008

Lies in the Textbooks (Part 3)

Charles Darwin – did you know that he graduated from bible college to be a preacher? He then went on a 5-year voyage and took with him 2 books: the Bible and Charles Lyell’s Principles of Geology. Lyell’s book changed Darwin’s life forever! He slowly lost his faith in the Bible.
“Micro-evolution” is not really part of the evolution theory – it is simply variation.
See Genesis 1 – “they bring forth after their kind.
Is evolution “change over time?” Or is it “living things have changed over time?” Or is it “a change in species over time?” This last one is the closest – species can change characteristics within their already predetermined genetic makeup (as designed by the original kinds created by God).
Science books will give you examples of micro-evolution and think that that proves that the other 5 definitions of evolution happen – none of those have even been proven or observed.
“Macro-evolution” is not just micro-evolution over a long period of time. This was agreed upon at a science conference in Chicago in 1980.
Variations happen, but 1) they have limits; 2) they produce the same kind of animal or plant; 3) the information for variation was already present – no new information is added; 4) the gene pool of the new variety is more limited than before and less able to adapt to future changes; 5) genetic information was lost, not added; 6) real evolution would require an increase in genetic complexity, not just a shift in gene frequency.
1795: Hutton’s book, Theory of the Earth made people doubt the earth was around 6,000 years old.
1830: Lyell’s book, Principles of Geology made people doubt the flood (Noah’s Flood).
1859: Darwin’s book, The Origin of Species… made people doubt the Creator.
Over the next years and decades, these lies led to the rise of Communism, Marxism, Socialism, Nazism, etc.
1 Timothy 6:20 – “O Timothy, keep that which is committed to thy trust, avoiding profane and vain babblings, and oppositions of science falsely so called.”
Many people have lost their faith in God because of evolution being taught. Karl Marx “wrote a beautiful paper telling of his love for the Lord. Then he went off to college, studied philosophy, and turned his back on God.” Joseph Stalin grew up going to a Christian school before reading Darwin and becoming an atheist. (Also: Andrew Carnegie).
75% of all children raised in Christian homes who attend public schools will reject the Christian faith by their first year of college. (Check out video Let My Children Go through www.jeremiahfilms.com)

Gardening Basics: Perennials

Daylily
by National Gardening Association Editors


Daylily
Few plants are as rugged, widely adapted, or versatile as daylilies. And with more than 13,000 cultivars available, there's a size and flower color for every garden.
About This Plant
Plant breeders continue to expand the color palette available in daylilies, which now includes yellow, orange, red, white, and purple flowers. Varieties with muliticolored blooms, often with a contrasting "eye," or center, are increasingly popular. Most daylilies have a distinct, three- to four-week bloom period in early to late summer, although some varieties continue to bloom sporadically all season long. Individual flowers last just one day but new ones open daily for the duration of the bloom time. Foliage height ranges from 1 to 4 feet, depending on variety. Flower stalks on the tallest varieties can reach 6 feet. Flowers are edible.
Special Features
Easy care/low maintenance
Multiplies readily
Tolerates dry soil
Site Selection
Select a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil. In areas with hot summers, light afternoon shade will keep brightly colored flowers from fading.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring, spacing plants 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Avoid excessive fertilizing as this will inhibit flower production. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Remove individual spent flowers daily and cut back flower stalks once all flowers have gone by. Divide plants every three to four years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps.
Geranium
by National Gardening Association Editors


Geranium
An easy-to-grow perennial, geranium is often used in borders, rock gardens, and as a ground cover. Another common name is cranesbill.
About This Plant
Geranium is a diverse group containing types that grow in a range of conditions, from full sun to shade. Flower colors include pink, blue, white, and purple. Most geraniums blooms in midsummer, although some species will bloom in spring and fall. Plants grow 6 inches to 4 feet tall, depending on the variety. These true geraniums are not the annual flowers commonly grown in windowboxes, which are more properly referred to by their botanical name, Pelargonium.
Special Features
Easy care/low maintenance
Multiplies readily
Deer resistant
Site Selection
Select a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil. In hot climates, choosing a site with moist soil and afternoon shade will improve vigor and prolong bloom.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring, spacing plants 6 inches to 2 feet apart, depending on the variety. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Cut back the plant after flowering to stimulate new growth and reblooming. Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps.

Hosta
by National Gardening Association Editors


Hosta
Hosta is an easy-to-grow, long-lived, shade-loving perennial that is prized for its colorful leaves. Other common names are plantain lily and funkia.
About This Plant
An ideal foliage plant for shady areas, hosta grows well under deciduous trees, in borders, and as a ground cover. Foliage height ranges from 6 inches to 3 feet, with taller flower spikes appearing in early to mid summer. Foliage colors range from chartreuse to deep blue-green, and many varieties have striking variegation. Flower colors include white and lavender; some flowers have a sweet scent. Because hosta is a favored food of slugs, snails, and deer, control measures may be required.
Special Features
Easy care/low maintenance
Multiplies readily
Unusual foliage
Site Selection
Select a site with light to full shade and moist, well-drained soil.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring, spacing plants 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. After the first killing frost, cut plant back to an inch or two above soil line. Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps.

Bearded Iris
by National Gardening Association Editors


Bearded Iris
With their swordlike leaves and showy flowers, bearded iris are an eye-catching addition to any garden. They're easy to plant, require minimum care, and readily multiply. Dwarf varieties make attractive edging.
About This Plant
Bearded iris are available in a wide variety of flower colors, including pink, blue, red, yellow, and purple. They bloom in early summer, with some varieties reblooming later in the summer. They grow from 8 inches to 4 feet tall, depending on variety. The flowers are lovely in bouquets, and the foliage remains attractive even after flowers have faded. Unfortunately, the plants are susceptible to borers, so check the rhizomes (fleshy roots) yearly for holes, discarding any infested ones.
Special Features
Easy care/low maintenance
Multiplies readily
Fragrant
Good for cut flowers
Site Selection
Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil.
Planting Instructions
Plant bearded iris in mid summer to early fall, spacing plants 1 to 2 feet apart, depending on variety. Excellent soil drainage is a must. Prepare garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. If planting a rhizome (fleshy root), dig a shallow hole 10 inches in diameter and 4 inches deep. Make a ridge of soil down the middle and place the rhizome on the ridge, spreading roots down both sides. Fill the hole with soil, and firm it gently. In clay soil, the top of the rhizome should be exposed. In sandy soil, rhizomes can be buried with a thin layer of soil. If planting container-grown plants, set the plant so the rhizome is at the soil surface. Water thoroughly.
Care
Apply a thin layer of compost around the base of plants each spring, leaving the rhizome (fleshy root) exposed. As flowers fade, cut back the flower stalks to the base of the plant. To encourage a second bloom on reblooming varieties, promptly remove faded flowers and maintain consistent watering throughout the summer. In autumn, trim away dead foliage and prune back healthy leaves to a height of 4 to 5 inches. Once the soil has frozen, apply a layer of mulch to help prevent roots from heaving out of the soil during alternate freezing and thawing. If heaving occurs, don't try to force plants back into the soil. Instead, cover rhizomes and exposed roots with soil. Divide bearded iris every 4 to 5 years, preferably in late summer. Each division should have one or two leaf fans. Older rhizomes that have few white feeding roots should be discarded.

Dianthus
by National Gardening Association Editors


Dianthus
There are numerous types of dianthus, so there's one for almost any garden situation. Many types have flowers with a fragrant, spicy scent and notched petals. Common dianthus include Sweet William, pinks, and carnations.
About This Plant
Most dianthus have pink, red, or white flowers with notched petals. Sweet Williams are biennial or short-lived perennials covered with bicolor flowers in late spring. Pinks are low-growing dianthus suitable for rock gardens. Carnations are taller and good for bouquets but tend to be less hardy than other dianthus.
Special Features
Multiplies readily
Fragrant
Good for cut flowers
Deer resistant
Site Selection
Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil, preferably with neutral to alkaline soil pH. Dianthus won't tolerate wet soils, especially in winter.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring or fall, spacing plants 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the type. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the plant's container. Carefully remove the plant from its pot and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Stake tall varieties to keep them upright. Remove spent blooms on tall varieties, or shear back mounding plants after bloom to encourage rebloom. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line. Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps.

Aster
by National Gardening Association Editors


Aster
Aster's brilliant flowers brighten the fall garden when little else is blooming. Indeed, "aster," the Latin word for "star," aptly describes the starry flower heads. Another common name is Michaelmas daisy.
About This Plant
Aster thrives in areas with cool, moist summers. It produces blue, white, or pink flowers in the late summer or fall. Plant height ranges from 8 inches to 8 feet, depending on variety. Tall varieties make good back-of-the-border plants and are also attractive planted in naturalized meadows. Aster is susceptible to powdery mildew and rust diseases, so choose disease-resistant varieties.
Special Features
Attracts butterflies
Site Selection
Select a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring, spacing plants 1 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety. Prepare garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Pinch young shoots back to encourage bushiness. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Stake tall varieties to keep them upright. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line. Divide plants every three to four years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps containing three to five shoots.

Foxglove
by National Gardening Association Editors


Foxglove
Foxglove bears tall, dramatic spikes of tubular flowers with speckled throats. Foxglove blooms in midsummer and adds elegance to a perennial border, woodland area, or shade garden.
About This Plant
Foxglove's low-growing foliage is topped by 2- to 5-foot-tall flower spikes, depending on the variety. Flower colors include pink, red, purple, white, and yellow. Foxgloves are biennials or short-lived perennials. However, although individual plants may be short-lived, foxglove readily self-sows and multiplies. Foxglove leaves contain digitalis, a potent heart medicine, and are considered poisonous.
Special Features
Easy care/low maintenance
Multiplies readily
Good for cut flowers
Deer resistant
Site Selection
Select a site with full sun to light shade and moist yet well-drained soil.
Planting Instructions
Set plants out in spring or fall, spacing plants 1 to 2 feet apart, depending on the variety; sow seeds in early summer. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the root ball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Stake tall varieties to keep them upright. Remove the central flower spike after flowering to encourage other side shoots to form and produce more flowers. However, if you want the plant to self-sow and multiply, leave the flower spike intact on the plant so seeds can mature and disperse.

Coreopsis
by National Gardening Association Editors


Coreopsis
Prized for its dependable nature and colorful, daisylike flowers, coreopsis has a long bloom period and is generally troublefree and easy to grow. Another common name is tickseed.
About This Plant
Coreopsis is tolerant of a variety of soil types and environmental conditions, making it a popular choice for home gardeners. Tall varieties can reach 4 feet in height and are good for the back of the border and in cutting gardens. Shorter, mounding varieties are more delicate and good for edging. Most coreopsis sport yellow flowers, although a pink variety is also available.
Special Features
Easy care/low maintenance
Multiplies readily
Good for cut flowers
Tolerates dry soil
Site Selection
Select a site with full sun and well-drained soil.
Planting Instructions
Plant in spring, spacing plants 2 to 3 feet apart, depending on the variety. Prepare the garden bed by using a garden fork or tiller to loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the pot the plant is in. Carefully remove the plant from its container and place it in the hole so the top of the rootball is level with the soil surface. Carefully fill in around the rootball and firm the soil gently. Water thoroughly.
Care
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Stake tall varieties to keep them upright. After the first killing frost, cut stems back to an inch or two above soil line. Divide plants every few years as new growth begins in the spring, lifting plants and dividing them into clumps.

Gardening Basics: Spices, Herbs plus Herbal Tea Recipe

Growing Oregano
By: National Gardening editors
There are several types of oregano. And while we recommend only one for kitchen use, others can be used as attractive border plantings or for wreath-making.

The Right Oregano

The oregano most often used in cooking is Origanum heracleoticum and goes by the common names Greek oregano, winter sweet marjoram, and Italian oregano. It's a hardy plant that establishes quickly, getting no taller than 6 to 8 inches. Be sure not to buy the common oregano (Origanum vulgare) if you want to cook with it. Common oregano has no real flavor, though it is covered with ornamental lavender flowers in summer, which dry well and are often used in wreaths. Golden oregano can be used for a ground cover or in container plantings. For culinary oregano, purchase a plant or plants from a reputable herb nursery to insure a flavorful, hardy plant.

Getting Started

Oregano is easily started from seed after the last spring frost; you can also divide an established bed to get new plants. Rich, fertile soil is best. Thin plants to stand 8 to 10 inches apart. Trim back before flowering (approximately 5 to 6 weeks after planting) to stimulate a denser, bushier growth habit. Plants will seed easily so you can thin out 3- to 4- year old plants to keep the bed quality high.

Harvest Time

Harvest leaves as you need them; the optimal flavor period is just before flowers bloom. Leaves dry easily and store well; they can be frozen, too.
Growing Thyme
By: National Gardening editors
The thyme group of herbs is aromatic, verstalie, and plentiful- over fifty varieties are judged beneficial for culinary or garden uses.

Types of Thyme

The thyme most often used in cooking is know as English thyme (a form of Thymus vulgaris). Like the other thymes, it has woody stems with small oval leaves. It will grow 8 to 12 inches high (many other thymes are smaller). Creeping varieties are good as edging plants or in rock gardens.

Loved for its lemon scent, lemon thyme (Thymus citriodorus) is a delightful plant for both garden and kitchen. One cultivar of lemon thyme with variegated yellow leaves and a prostrate habit is known as 'Doone Valley'. It makes a beautiful ground cover, particularly in winter when it turns strong shades of yellow, red, and green. Caraway thyme (Thymus herbabarona) is a low-growing plant combining the fragrancees of caraway and thyme; it has dark green leaves.

Getting Started

Seeds are troublesome to start because of slow, uneven germination. Buy a plant or two of the variety you want from a good nursery and plant it in the spring in full sun where the soil is light and well drained. You can also start plants from cuttings if you have a friend willing to share. Space the plants 9 inches apart.

Thyme Care

Where winters are very cold, mulch the plants after the ground freezes with a light mulch such as pine needles. Trim the plants back a bit in the spring and summer to contain growth and prevent them from developing too much woody growth.

Thyme to Harvest

Leaves and sprigs can be harvested all summer. In the early fall cut and tie sprigs together and hang them upside down in a dark, well-ventilated, warm area to dry. You can also dry stemless leaves on a tray or freeze them.
Best Herbs for Teas
By: Evelyn Gaspar
Once I began blending and testing herb teas to sell under my Garden Party label, I knew what I didn't want. An herb tea should never be flat and flavorless. Whether it's fruity or spicy, soothing or lively, simple or sophisticated, it needs taste and personality.

I found my homegrown mint, lemon balm and chamomile were more flavorful than the herbal ingredients I could buy. I also learned that many of the old-fashioned beverage flavorers, such as rose petals and toasted sunflower hulls, are still delightful additions. And for simple pleasures, few things equal the fragrance and flavor of a few fresh leaves of lemon verbena steeped in boiling water.

Best Herbs for Tea

Here are my picks for the most flavorful and widely adapted "tea" plants for home gardens, along with tips for harvesting and my favorite recipes. All of these plants grow well throughout the United States. They are hardy perennials (up to -20oF) that do well in sun or part shade, except where noted.

* Bee Balm (Monarda didyma), a member of the mint family, is native to the eastern United States and Canada. Here in the drier West, I pamper it, making sure it's in water-retentive soil. Both the brightly colored flowers and the leaves, with their complex flavors of citrus and spice, are used for tea.

* Betony (Stachys officinalis) bears two- to three-foot spikes of violet flowers. The deep green, hairy leaves make a slightly astringent tea that's similar to a mild, fragrant China tea.

* Catnip (Nepeta cataria) is a two- to three-foot-tall mint-family member. The fuzzy, scalloped leaves have a lemon-mint flavor. If you have cats, you know they roll in it. My solution: Grow a surplus and dry the leaves on top of the refrigerator where the cats can't reach them. One caution: Pregnant women should avoid drinking catnip tea.

* Chamomile bears small, daisy-like flowers that have long been used in Europe for tea. German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) is a two-foot annual. Roman or English chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) is a lush green perennial ground coverms of C. nobile bear small, yellow, button-like flowers. Although many references designate German chamomile as the sweeter type preferred for tea, I harvest the mature flowers of both chamomiles for a light, apple-scented tea.

* Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) produces seeds that lend a warm, citrusy flavor to tea. The leaves, used in cooking, are known as cilantro or Chinese parsley. This fast-growing half-hardy annual prefers cool weather. Plant in fall in mild climates; elsewhere, succession-plant through spring and summer.

* Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) is a three- to five-foot perennial often cultivated as an annual. In cold climates, you can succession-plant through the early spring and summer, and it will often self-sow. Here in the desert, I plant in fall. Fennel likes full sun. Both the feathery leaves and the seeds are used for licorice-flavored teas.

* Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis) is our family favorite. This floppy two-foot-tall member of the mint family has scalloped, lemon-scented leaves that make a soothing evening tea and add body to blends as well. It's listed for zones 4 and 5, but I've found it less hardy than other mints. A rooted cutting will overwinter indoors.

* Lemon Verbena (Aloysia triphylla) is, among all the plants with "lemon" in their names, the most like oil of lemon, hence the most strongly flavored. The leaves are long, slightly sticky and deciduous. This woody shrub prefers full sun and a light, well-drained soil. It's hardy only in zones 10 and 11. Elsewhere, grow it in a planter and winter it indoors (treat it first with insecticidal soap, as it's prone to whiteflies and spider mites).

* Mint (Mentha spp.) comes in many varieties, all of which have been used as teas. In my opinion, peppermint leaves (M. x piperita) are the only ones that stand up to drying and steeping, making a wonderfully refreshing iced tea. Like any mint, peppermint can be invasive. It tolerates drier conditions than spearmint. Here in the desert we give it shade.

* Roses (Rosa spp.) can be used to make two kinds of tea, those from the hips (fruit) and those from the petals. You can use the petals of any fragrant variety that's been grown organically. I gather them when the blooms are just past their peak. Rosa rugosa is one that's recommended for both petals and hips because it's a fragrant, pest-free rose that doesn't require spraying. Rose hip tea is red, with a tart lemon-orange flavor, and is a source of vitamin C. Cut slits in plump hips to speed drying and crush them slightly before brewing tea.

* Sunflower seed hulls, roasted and ground, were used by Native Americans and pioneers as a coffee substitute. I run a rolling pin over the seeds to crack them, then remove the kernels for baking and snacks. I place the hulls in a dry cast-iron frying pan and stir over medium-high heat for a few minutes until they're blackened. It's a smoky operation, but the aroma is toasty and inviting. The hulls add a hearty flavor to teas, as well as darken them.

* Yerba Buena (Satureja douglasii) is a low-growing perennial with wonderful menthol-mint-flavored leaves. A native of the Pacific redwood forests and hardy only to 10oF, it needs a climate that's moist and mild. We grew it in San Francisco, and miss it here in the desert.

Harvesting

Aromatic oils are most concentrated when herb plants are in bud, so that's a good time to harvest, although you can certainly take cuttings here and there during the growing season. Cut back the entire plant by two thirds. In my region, I get about three cuttings before letting the plants go.

The plants listed here can all be used fresh for tea, or they can be dried first. To dry them, I spread the stems on trays in a warm, airy place and turn them twice a day. When they're dry (four to eight days), I gently strip off the leaves, buds or flowerheads and store them in closed containers.

I cut stalk fennel and coriander when the seeds are barely mature, but before they shatter, and invert them in paper sacks. In a few weeks, when the seeds have dropped to the bottom and dried, I funnel them into storage containers.

Photo by Suzanne DeJohn/National Gardening Association
Herbal Tea Recipe
By: Evelyn Gaspar
Once you've harvesting your herbs for tea, here's how to blend and brew up a healthy pot of tea.

Blending and Brewing

In "merry olde England," a tea with one ingredient was called a simple. By all means, start by sampling some simples and get familiar with the various teas. That way, you'll know if you're one of a very small percentage of people that may experience a reaction to one of these ingredients.



Once you discover the art of blending, however, you'll probably prefer the made-to-order tastes and subtle accents you can create. But just as mixing contrasting colors can make a muddy mess, mixing unrelated flavors can be unsatisfying. The trick is to choose one flavor or family of flavors to carry your message. Then, for accent, add small amounts of other herbs or bits of dried fruit or citrus peel, toasted almonds or walnuts, or whole spices. Use about three parts of your dominant ingredient(s) to one part of accent items. Crumble the leaves if necessary to mix evenly, but not enough to go through your strainer or tea ball.

Recipes

The recipes given here call for dried ingredients and yield six cups of tea. Use one tablespoon of dried herbs per cup, plus one for the pot. For fresh leaves or flowers, triple the amounts (seed measurements don't change). Pour boiling water over the herbs, cover and let steep for one to three minutes. Herb teas are naturally pale. Sweetening with honey darkens them and adds body. Lemon juice bleaches the color; try rose hips instead. Peppermint, betony and sunflower teas can take a little milk.

b>Mint Mania

3 tablespoons peppermint leaves

1 tablespoon catnip leaves

1 tablespoon rose petals

1 tablespoon lemon verbena leaves

Orchard

3 tablespoons chamomile flowers

2 tablespoons lemon verbena leaves

1 tablespoon fennel seed

1 teaspoon crushed coriander seed

1 teaspoon snipped dried apricot

Bistro

4 tablespoons toasted sunflower hulls

4 teaspoons fennel seed

4 teaspoons orange rind (colored part only)

Maytime

3 tablespoons chamomile flowers

1 tablespoon bee balm leaves

2 teaspoons rosemary leaves

2 teaspoons crushed coriander seed

2 teaspoons peppermint leaves

Gardening Basics: Peas

Preparing to Plant Peas
By: the Editors of National Gardening
Peas are everyone's garden favorite. There's nothing like the taste of fresh sweet peas in spring. Here's some history and tips on planting peas.

A Brief History of Peas

Northerners and southerners have different ideas about the meaning of the word "pea." To southerners, peas are black-eyeds, crowders and creams; to northerners, these same varieties are known as shell beans. The northern version of "peas" is known as English or green peas, and if you ask home gardeners to name their favorite vegetable, many will say green peas.

Garden peas originated in western Asia and Eastern Europe. We know they existed as far back as the Stone Age, because dried pea seeds were discovered among relics in lake villages of Switzerland. Apparently 1,000 years ago the pea, which was small and dark colored, was grown only for its dried seeds. At the turn of the millennium, people started eating them fresh, too.

The popularity of peas increased during the 18th century. The Anglo-Saxon word for peas was "pise," later to be called "pease," but nobody knew whether that referred to one pea or many. So, the word "peas" was coined. Because our green garden peas were derived from varieties that thrived in England, they are called "English peas."

Planting Peas

When you're deciding where to plant which vegetable, there are two good reasons why it's a good idea to locate your peas in a section that receives full sun:

* Sunny spots will be the first places to thaw in the spring, and you want to get your peas into the ground as early as possible.

* If peas are planted in the shade, they'll grow. However, the sugar content will be low, and the peas will taste as if they've been sitting around at the store for a few weeks.

Although peas do need full sun, be careful not to plant the tall varieties where they'll shade other plants.

No matter what size your garden, you'll have the best results if you plant peas in 16-inch-wide rows with walkways at least the same width. Not only will you harvest more, but you'll put less time and work into your crop. For most varieties, if you plant in wide rows there's no need to build trellises or fences for support, because the vines hold each other up. Also, wide-row vines form a living- mulch canopy that helps to eliminate weeds and keeps the soil cool and moist.

When To Plant Peas

Peas are a cool-weather crop that can withstand frost. Northern gardeners can often plant their first crop near the end of March, as soon as the garden has thawed and the soil can be worked. A few varieties, however, are happier being planted when it's warmer and harvested during midsummer. Seed catalogs and packets indicate the preferred time for planting different varieties.

In the Far North, garden peas can be harvested almost all summer if you use a little ingenuity. Plant peas every three to four weeks for a continual summer harvest. Once you've harvested your first crop of peas, pull out and compost the vines or till them in and replant a second crop of peas in the same space. Or you can plant another short-season vegetable.

In the West, gardeners can harvest peas year-round; in the South they're best if grown in the fall, winter and very early spring before the weather gets too hot.
Planting Peas
By: National Gardening editors
You can plant peas in a number of different fashions. Check to see which one suits your garden best.

Wide Rows

Although peas can be grown successfully in single rows, you'll have a more abundant harvest with much less work if you grow peas in wide rows. With wide-row growing, you'll spend less time weeding, watering and harvesting, and more time shelling, because the harvest is larger.

It's easiest to make your wide rows the same width as your rake, which is normally 14 to 16 inches. To mark off a wide row, put a stake at each end of the row. Stretch a string close to the ground between the two stakes. Hold one edge of an iron rake next to the string, and drag the rake down the length of the row. This will level and smooth the seedbed at the same time that it marks off the width of the row.

Remove large stones and any debris from the seedbed and really smooth the soil before you plant. Once you've finished, don't walk on the bed - you'll only pack it down. You want the soil loose for your seeds.

Broadcast pea seeds 1-1/2 to two inches apart across the entire raked area.

Using the back of a hoe, gently tamp down the seeds, pressing them into the soil. With a rake, pull enough soil from outside the row to cover the seeds. The amount of soil covering each seed should equal four times the diameter of the seed, or about 1-1/2 inches for peas. Gently level off the row.

Finally, the soil should be firmed down again, so that there's good contact with the seeds.

It's a good idea to water the rows gently after planting, especially if the soil is dry. If you water before planting, you'll pack down the soil.

Leave 18-inch-wide walkways between your wide rows. This allows enough room for the plants to spread out, and it's also wide enough to walk through, allowing you to cultivate and harvest easily.

Single Rows

The simplest way to make a single row is to put stakes in the ground at each end of the row and stretch a string tightly between them. Draw a shallow furrow with a hoe beside the string in the well-spaded seedbed.

Plant seeds one to two inches apart in rows at least 16 inches apart. After planting the row, use a hoe to cover the seeds with 1-1/2 inches of soil. Then gently firm the soil with the back of the hoe and water well.

Double Rows

Although they're similar to single rows, double rows use garden space more productively. Make two shallow furrows four to five inches apart. Drop the seeds into the furrows, one to two inches apart and 1-1/2 inches deep. Continue planting as you would for single rows.

The double-row method is especially helpful for trellising tall pea varieties. Simply place the vine supports between the double rows.

If you have irrigation problems, place a soaker hose (a garden hose made of porous material that allows the water to seep out slowly) between the two rows for efficient watering.

Another way to irrigate double rows is to dig a shallow furrow between the two seed rows. To water the peas, simply run water down the middle furrow.
Caring for Peas
By: the Editors of National Gardening
Peas don't need as much attention as other vegetables, but do need support, weeding, some fertilizing and care.

Support for Climbers

'Alderman' and 'Super Sugar Snap' peas are both climbing varieties. Because they grow five to six feet tall, these peas usually need some type of support, like a fence, trellis or brush.

In single rows, position the support about three inches behind the row. For double rows, put it in between the rows, so the peas can grow up either side of the support. Or, to maximize space, you can plant a double row on each side of the trellis.

Supports are easy to make. A simple one uses 4- to 5-foot-long stakes placed five feet apart down the row. Run three wires horizontally between the stakes, one foot apart. If you prefer, use chicken wire with a 2-inch mesh instead of the separate wires.

Unlike other climbing vegetables, peas naturally grasp the support with their tendrils, though you may need to guide them gently towards the support as they become tall enough to reach it.

Fertilizng

Because peas are good foragers, they don't need much fertilizer - especially nitrogen. A day or two before planting, broadcast three to four pounds of 5-10-10 commercial fertilizer over each 100 square feet of garden space. Then work it into the top two to three inches of soil.

You may prefer to use organic fertilizers, such as well-rotted or dehydrated manure or bone meal. Spread a one- to two-inch layer over your raised beds and work in the material. If you use local manure, be sure it's well aged. Animals' digestive tracts don't destroy weed seeds, so if you put fresh manure on your garden, you'll probably also be planting weeds.

The primary ingredients of synthetic fertilizer are three nutrients that are vital to all plants: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). If you have a 100-pound bag of 5-10-10 fertilizer, it contains five percent nitrogen, 10 percent phosphorus and 10 percent potassium. (The order is constant.) The remaining 75 pounds is sand or other filler plus some trace minerals.

Each of the three major nutrients contained in fertilizer has a unique job to accomplish while your plants are growing. Nitrogen helps plants have healthy lush green foliage. However, too much nitrogen can burn seeds or plants if it comes in direct contact with them, and it can also generate too much vine growth rather than pods with peas inside. Phosphorus is necessary for the development of strong, healthy roots. Potassium, or potash, helps the plant to grow, bear fruit and resist diseases.

It's important to mix chemical fertilizers thoroughly into the soil before you start planting.

Weeding

Once your seedlings start to emerge, weeds also appear. Weeding is the scourge of gardening for most people, but it doesn't have to be. If you stay ahead of it, which is easy with wide rows, you won't have to bribe the neighborhood kids to do it for you.

With wide-row growing, you can usually drag an iron rake across the row as soon as the seedlings emerge in order to thin the row and get rid of early-germinating weeds. Do not do this with peas or beans. These plants are tender, and they may break. However, peas and beans grow quickly, forming a canopy that soon shades weed seedlings from the sun, which inhibits their growth.

Mulching

When your single- and double-row plants are a few inches tall, you can sharply curtail weeding by putting mulch in the walkways. A 3- to 6-inch layer of mulch completely shades the ground, preventing weed growth.

Mulch also conserves moisture and helps to keep the ground at a constant cool temperature. Mulch is almost a necessity if your soil is sandy, warm and too dry. You can use black plastic, or organic mulches, such as bark, straw, lawn clippings, leaves or pine needles.

To keep moisture in the soil and weeds out, apply mulch soon after you cultivate following a soaking rain. Be sure not to add trouble where there wasn't any before. Use only mulch that's free of weed seeds.
Harvesting Peas
By: the Editors of National Gardening
One of the marvelous things about growing your own vegetables is that you decide when it's time to harvest. You can pick your vegetables just before preparing them, knowing that you have the youngest, freshest ones in town. Most commercial gardeners won't pick the youngest vegetables because they earn more money for heavier crops. But generally, the younger the harvest, the more tender and flavorful it is.

English Peas

There's nothing more delicious than the first tender peas, picked right off the vine, shelled and eaten raw. Not only are they sweet and tasty, but they also contain an abundance of vitamins A, B and C.

English peas are sweet because of their high sugar content. However, just a few hours after picking, the sugar starts turning to starch. That's why it's important to shell and cook peas immediately after harvesting them.

In general, you can begin harvesting English peas between 55 and 70 days after planting, depending on the variety. When mature, the pea pods will be nearly round and the peas will taste sweet. You should have several pickings over a period of seven to 10 days.

Use two hands to pick peas, so that you won't damage the brittle vines or uproot the plants. Hold onto the pea vine with one hand, and pick off the pods with the other.

Always pick overmature pods. If allowed to remain on the vines, they'll decrease your total yield.

Once the peas have been harvested, till or spade the whole plants back into the ground, or pull the plants and put them in your compost pile.

If your peas were planted early in the spring, you'll have time to plant another vegetable in that same location. Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, root crops and spinach do well in soil where nitrogen-fixing legumes have grown.

Edible-Podded Peas

Harvest snow peas the same way you would English peas, only pick them before the peas have filled out in the pods. These pods will be bright green, tender and flat.

Snap peas, on the other hand, should fill out completely, so they're nice and plump. Remove their strings and blossom ends, and then steam, boil, stir fry or freeze them. Better yet, enjoy them raw!

Southern Peas

Picked when the pods are still green, southern peas can be shelled, boiled and served in the same manner as English peas. However, don't expect the same sugar content found in English peas; southern peas contain much higher levels of starch.

You can also leave southern peas on the vine to fully mature and dry. If your growing season ends before the peas are thoroughly dry, either pull the vines and hang them in a well-ventilated area, or shell the peas and dry them in the sun or in a dehydrator.

Dried Split Peas

'Alaska' is the English pea variety usually grown and dried for split peas. This hardy pea has a low sugar content and produces smooth seeds. Although generally dried commercially, home gardeners can dry Alaska peas easily.

Gardening Basics: Peppers, Okra and Eggplant

Pepper Types
By: National Gardening editors
Seed companies break the peppers we grow down into two categories: hot and sweet. The hot types include Cayenne, Jalapeno and Anaheim. Examples of sweet peppers are Bell and Pimiento. Banana and Cherry peppers come both sweet and hot.

Anaheim

Mildly hot, elongated, blunt-ended pods measure from four to 10 inches long and turn from green to red at maturity. These peppers are often called New Mexico chilis because of their long history of being grown in that region. Popular varieties include 'Anaheim TMR', 'NuMex Big Jim' and 'NuMex Sunrise'.

Banana

Long, thin-walled pepper that ripens to red or yellow; often used in the immature pale green stage. The hot type is called Hungarian Wax. Varieties include 'Sweet Banana' and 'Giant Yellow Banana'.

Bell

Characterized by large, blocky fruits with three or four lobes, these peppers are about three inches wide and four inches long and they taper slightly. Starting off as dark green to yellow-green, most turn red when fully ripe, although some turn yellow or orange, and even brown or purple. Bell peppers are regularly harvested and used when green. There are around 200 varieties in the Bell group. 'California Wonder', 'Northstar' and 'Ace' belong to this group.

Cayenne

These are hot chile peppers. The fruits are slim, pointed and slightly curved, ranging in length from two to eight inches. Most of the fruits are green, ripening to red. They can be used in either the green or the red stage. Examples are 'Large Thick Cayenne', 'Super Cayenne' and 'Long Red Cayenne'.

Cherry

Fruits are cherry or globe-shaped with three cells. They grow on long, upright stems, usually above the leaves of the plant. They are usually orange to deep red when harvested and may be sweet or hot, large or small. Varieties include 'Cherry Sweet' and 'Large Cherry'.

Jalapeno

One of the most well known hot peppers. The three-inch-long by one-inch-wide conical fruits can be eaten green or red and their mildly hot flavor is popular on nachos, salsas and pickled. Varieties include 'Jalapa', 'Jalapeno M' and 'TAM Jalapeno'.

Pimiento

These peppers are sweet and have very thick walls. The fruit is conical, two to three inches wide, three to four inches long and slightly pointed. Pimientos are red when ripe, and they're most commonly used at this stage. Popular varieties include 'Super Red Pimiento' and 'Pimiento L'.

Ornamental Peppers

Ornamental peppers are a true member of the Capsicum family like the peppers that are grown for food outdoors. Give them lots of sun and keep them evenly moist, and they'll produce many small cone-shaped peppers. These plants, which you can usually buy through a seed catalog, at a florist shop or even in a supermarket, are very pretty when the miniature peppers start to ripen. Often you'll have a plant simultaneously splashed with green, yellow, red and orange because each pepper ripens at its own pace.

These mini peppers are edible, but they are hot! You can use them in cooking or for attractive and different hors d'oeuvres along with crackers and a dip. Just be careful not to confuse them with a plant called the Jerusalem or Christmas Cherry. Instead of the cone-shaped peppers, these plants have round, reddish-orange fruits when ripe and they are not edible.

The Name Game

Chile, Chili, Cayenne, Jalapeno - By Any Name, It's Hot!

Names for hot peppers can get confusing. Some people call them chili peppers, cayennes or jalapenos, and others just call them hot peppers. What are they really called? Is each of these names a separate category?

The confusion started in Mexico. Chile is the Spanish word for pepper. To specify which type of pepper, Mexicans would add the word for the particular type after the name chile. Therefore, chile dulce would be sweet pepper, chile jalapeno would be the Jalapeno pepper, and so on. When chile found its way into this country, different meanings were given to it in various parts of the country, and it even acquired a new spelling. In the Southwest and West, chile is used to refer to the Anaheim pepper. In other parts of the South and the Southeast, and still other sections of the country, chile refers to any type of hot pepper. Some folks refer to all hot peppers as cayennes or jalapenos. And all over the country we have different chile con carnes, which are pepper based.



Chile and chili are not varieties of peppers, but only words used to describe that the pepper is hot. So whether you say chile or chili, cayenne or jalapeno, and whether the word describes just an Anaheim pepper or all hot peppers, watch out! That pepper is hot!
Starting Eggplant, Pepper, and Okra Seeds Indoors
By: National Gardening editors
Unless you live in the Deep South or Southwest, you won't want to sow your pepper or eggplant seeds directly into the ground. Most gardeners in these regions prefer either to buy transplants or start their own indoors for outdoor planting when the weather and the ground have warmed enough.

Starting Up With Okra

Okra has a reputation for being hard to transplant and because it doesn't require a very long season, many gardeners will sow their okra seeds right in the ground at the proper time. But if you want to and are willing to take a little extra care of the long taproot or main root that okra develops, you can successfully transplant this crop.

Some Basics On Starting Seed Indoors

It's very easy to grow your own transplants, and growing your own gives you the freedom to pick your own varieties. It also lets you make sure the plants get the best care right from the start.

To grow your own transplants, all you need is:

1. Sterilized soil or potting mix;

2. Suitable containers such as peat pots, flats, Jiffy 7's, milk cartons cut in half, or anything that will hold soil and provide good drainage;

3. A place to put the seeds while they're germinating that provides a warm, even temperature - bottom heat is especially important;

4. Plenty of sunshine or grow lights;

5. Seeds.

For good germination, make sure the container has holes for drainage. If excess water can't drain, your seeds will rot.

All your efforts can be ruined by damping off, a fungus disease that attacks the emerging seedlings, if you don't take steps to prevent it. The best preventive measures are to make sure your potting soil mix is sterile and that you don't overwater. Purchased soil and potting mixes usually are sterile. If you want to use your own garden soil, you can get rid of the fungus organisms and weed seeds by baking the soil in a shallow pan (like a cookie sheet), in a 200F oven for about an hour. Don't do this when you're hungry; the smell is enough to make you lose your appetite. And don't try to sterilize soil in a microwave oven: you may damage the oven. Another way to prevent damping off is to treat the seeds with captan, which can be bought at a garden supply store. Be sure to follow the directions on the package.

Pot Basics

To start growing your transplants, fill the container with moistened, not wet, potting mix or soil. If you're using peat pots or Jiffy 7's, plant a few seeds in each. This ensures at least one good plant per pot. In flats, sprinkle the seed about 1/4 to 1/2 inch apart. Then firm them into the soil with a flat, rigid object. such as a small wooden shingle or a kitchen spatula. Sprinkle some more of the potting mix over the seeds, covering them only to a depth of three to four times their own diameter. For pepper and eggplant seeds, about 1/4 inch of the moistened soil or mix is about right. Okra seeds are bigger and can take about an inch of covering. Firm the top of the soil again, so that the seeds come into good contact with the moistened soil to help germination.

Cover the flat or container with plastic wrap or put it in a plastic bag to help retain moisture. Then place the bundle in a spot that's consistently warm but not hot, such as the top of the fridge. Cover the packages with a few sheets of newspaper to help insulate them.

A sunny window is the worst place to put seeds that are trying to germinate. It's hot during the day and usually cold at night. These temperature extremes don't help the seeds to germinate. The top of your refrigerator is a great location because the temperature is constant, warming the soil around your seeds. It has the added benefit of getting flats or containers out of your way. Eggplant, pepper and okra seeds don't need sunlight to sprout, just warmth and a bit of moisture.
Fertilizing Eggplant, Peppers, and Okra
By: the Editors of National Gardening
Eggplant, peppers and okra are heavy feeders, but they are also picky eaters. They like small amounts of food all season long. Too much nitrogen will produce lots of foliage but not much in the way of fruits.

Adding Fertilizer

So, before planting, add some organic fertilizer, like dehydrated chicken manure, or any other type of animal manure. You can also work two to four pounds of a balanced fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, into each 100 square feet of soil. The numbers 10-10-10 refer to the percentages, by weight, of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) in the bag of fertilizer. For an extra boost at planting time, put a handful of compost or a teaspoon of 5-10-10, mixed with some soil, into the bottom of the hole and then cover the fertilizer with one to two inches of soil. This protects your plants from getting burned if the roots come into contact with the fertilizer.

The Match Trick

If you've tried to grow peppers in the past and you've been disappointed with the results, try this trick. Peppers like a pH that's a bit on the acid side (5.5 to 6.0), so take a few matches from a matchbook and mix them with the soil and fertilizer in the bottom of the transplant hole. Then cover this mixture with two to three inches of soil. The roots of the transplants must not come into contact with the matches because the sulfur can damage them. The sulfur in the matches lowers the pH around the roots, and the peppers seem to love it.

A variation of this trick can be done by buying sulfur powder at the drugstore, mixing a pinch of it with the soil in the bottom of the hole and covering it before planting.

Try the match trick. It just might give you the largest pepper crop you've ever had.

Careful with the Fertilizer

You also have to be careful when fertilizing. Sometimes pepper plants will have lots of blossoms but not enough fruit. This could be due to extremes of heat (temperatures above 90F) or cold (below 55F). Under these conditions, blossoms will drop off the plant rather than set. A lack of magnesium can contribute to the problem. To restore magnesium, buy some Epsom salts at the drugstore and add about one tablespoon to an empty spray bottle. Then fill the bottle with lukewarm water, shake it up so the Epsom salts dissolve and spray the solution on the leaves and blossoms of your pepper plants. If you do this a couple of times during the blossom period, you should have plenty of peppers.
Harvesting Eggplant, Peppers and Okra
By: the Editors of National Gardening

The most important thing about harvesting eggplant, peppers and okra is to start as soon as there's something to eat. It's the job of the plant to make seeds, so too much of the plant's effort will go into ripening the fruit instead of producing new fruit if you don't harvest regularly and often. Make it a practice to go out every few days and pick what's ready to eat. Try to get the most out of each plant. After all, having good things to eat is one of the main reasons to garden.
You can harvest peppers when they're as small as golf balls. Most peppers, except for a few varieties like Sweet Banana, are green when young. Don't be surprised if you see your bell peppers turn red; many of them do as they ripen. Harvest them by cutting through the stem of each fruit with a knife. You can have an almost-continuous harvest from your pepper plants by cutting often, as this encourages the plant to keep blossoming, especially in the beginning of the summer. Later in the season, leave some green peppers on your plants to turn red. They taste wonderful and are colorful in pepper relish.
In the South, pepper plants can be cut back after the first big harvest to encourage another crop. That's because peppers are really a perennial plant, although they are most often grown as an annual. If your season is long enough, cut the plant back to a few inches above the soil surface. The plant will grow back and give you a second, large harvest. Don't forget to sidedress, though, so the plant will have enough food to continue its work.
Eggplant tastes best when harvested young. If you cut into an eggplant and find an abundance of brown seeds, it's already too late for prime eating. The fruit will be a dark, glossy purple when it's ready to harvest. The surface of the eggplant will turn dull and it will taste bitter as it gets older and past its prime. To harvest eggplant, cut through the stem above the green cap, or calyx, on the top. It's a tough stem, so have a sharp knife handy. The calyx can be prickly, so you may want to wear gloves. You can cut these plants back like peppers if your season is long enough for a second crop.
Gloves and a long-sleeved shirt are practically a must when you harvest okra. The pods and leaves are usually covered with little spines you can hardly see. These spines can get under your skin and make your hands and arms itch for days.
Overripe okra is too tough to eat, and it grows so fast you may have to harvest every day. A pod that's ready one day will have gone by the next. The best pods, those not more than four inches long, should be cut with a knife or broken right below the cap on the bottom. Only one pod grows beneath each leaf, so break off the leaf after harvesting the pod. This helps you remember where you've already harvested and indicates where to start the next time.
Okra plants grow so tall in the South you may have to stand on a ladder to harvest them! Okra doesn't get nearly that tall in the North. When the plants get too tall to harvest, southern gardeners can cut them back to 12 to 18 inches above the ground. This is usually done in July or August. The plants will sprout again to make a second crop. You can also grow dwarf varieties that grow less than six feet tall.
Photographs by Suzanne DeJohn/NationalGardening.com (top); National Gardening.com